Cost and value

What a radon system costs to own

The installation is the large number, and it is the one everyone focuses on. Over twenty years of ownership, though, the running costs are worth understanding — partly to budget for them, and partly because people who do not understand them sometimes switch the system off.

There are four ongoing costs, and none of them is large.

Fan electricity

The fan runs continuously and draws a modest, steady load — comparable to leaving a small appliance on around the clock. Ask your contractor for the wattage of the specified model; it is on the manufacturer's specification sheet, and an honest bidder will give you the figure rather than an adjective.

Multiply that wattage by your local electricity rate to get an annual number. For most households it is a small line item, and it is the price of the system doing anything at all.

Conditioned air loss

This one is less obvious and often larger than the electricity. The system continuously removes air from beneath and around the slab edge, and some of the air it removes is conditioned air from inside the house — heated in winter, cooled in summer.

A well-sealed installation minimizes it, which is one more reason the sealing scope is worth paying for. A system over an unsealed slab pulls more conditioned air and costs more to run for a worse result.

Periodic retesting

Retest every two years, and again after anything that changes how the house breathes — a new furnace or water heater, replaced windows, a finished basement, a foundation repair, an addition, or weatherization work.

Short-term test kits are inexpensive, and long-term alpha-track detectors are also modest. Over twenty years this is a small recurring cost that keeps the system honest and keeps your documentation current.

Fan replacement, once or twice

Over a long tenure you should expect at least one fan replacement — the fan itself plus a short service call, assuming it was mounted accessibly. Budget for a retest with each swap.

That is the complete list. There is no filter, no annual service requirement, no consumable, and no maintenance contract that a residential system needs.

Long-term ownership costs: common questions

Can I cut costs by running the fan only part of the day?

No — and switching it off is the one genuinely poor decision available to you. Soil gas entry resumes as soon as the pressure differential disappears, and concentrations climb back. The system is designed for continuous operation, and intermittent running gives back the result for a saving that is trivial in comparison.

Is there a more energy-efficient fan I could switch to?

Manufacturers do offer models with different power characteristics, and a fan matched more precisely to your sub-slab conditions can sometimes run more efficiently. This is a conversation to have with a mitigation professional rather than a straight substitution, because a fan chosen on wattage alone can undercut the design. Any change should be followed by a retest.

Should I buy a service plan for the system?

A residential mitigation system does not need one. The maintenance regime is glancing at the manometer occasionally, retesting every couple of years, and replacing the fan when it eventually fails. Anyone selling an annual service contract for a residential system is selling something the system does not require.

Keep reading

Modest continuous electricity, some conditioned air, a test every couple of years, and a fan every so often. That is the entire cost of ownership — and switching it off to avoid it is the one move that wastes the original investment.

Sources

  1. U.S. EPA Radon
  2. U.S. EPA A Citizen’s Guide to Radon
  3. U.S. EPA Consumer’s Guide to Radon Reduction

Ask about wattage during the site visit

Independent licensed contractors specify the fan by model, which is what lets you calculate running cost before you commit. Free to request, no obligation.

Get free quotes